Hay Festival: A First-Timer’s Guide to the World-Famous Book Festival

Planning to visit to Hay Festival? Here’s everything worth knowing before you go to the world-famous book festival—from tickets and transport to where to stay, and how to make the most of your time in Hay-on-Wye.

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If you love books, ideas, authors, and the feeling of being surrounded by people who also find joy in words—then Hay Festival is one of the easiest dream trips you’ll take this year.

Each spring, the small Welsh border town of Hay-on-Wye transforms into one of the most famous literary gathering places in the world, drawing writers, thinkers, journalists, comedians, historians, readers, and curious visitors from across the UK and beyond.

For 11 days, fields just outside town become a tented village of talks, debates, performances, signings, food stalls, bookshops and long conversations in deck chairs between events.

And the lovely thing is—despite its reputation, it’s remarkably easy to visit for yourself.

Whether you’re planning a day trip to the Hay Festival, a weekend in Hay-on-Wye, or your first proper literary getaway, here’s everything worth knowing before visiting Hay Festival for the first time—from someone who’s done it!

Shall we?

About the Author

Hi, I’m Candace — a London-based travel writer and content creator who traded the East Coast of the US for the charm of the UK back in 2016. London’s been my home ever since.

On this blog, you’ll find hundreds of thoughtfully crafted London, UK, Europe and Worldwide travel guides alongside lots of insider London tips, honest hotel and restaurant reviews and advice for content creators.

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🗞️📺 As featured on the BBC, USA Today & Recipe.TV.

What is Hay Festival?

Held each spring in Hay-on-Wye in Wales, Hay Festival is one of the best-known literary festivals in the world, bringing together thousands of writers, thinkers, journalists, artists, politicians and readers for eleven days of talks, conversations, performances and cultural events.

It began in 1988, when a small group of organisers decided that Hay-on-Wye—with its growing reputation as the town of books—was the perfect setting for a literary gathering. Since then, it has grown into an internationally recognised festival, with hundreds of events taking place each year and visitors arriving from across the UK and abroad.

Today, the festival takes place in a large temporary site just outside the centre of town, with multiple stages, a festival bookshop, cafés, food stalls and open seating areas spread across the grounds.

It’s a perfect way to spend a spring weekend in the UK, and of course, indulge in some lovely book reading!

🗓️ This year’s festival is from Thursday 21 to Sunday 31 May 2026

How to Get to Hay Festival

Hay Festival takes place just outside the centre of Hay-on-Wye, so once you’re in town, the festival site is easy to reach on foot with shuttle buses running between the town centre and festival grounds throughout the day (see timetable here).

To get to Hay-on-Wye itself you have a a few options:

🚗 Driving to Hay Festival
From London, the drive usually takes around 3-5 hours, depending on traffic via the M4 West towards Wales, then switching to the M5 North and A49/A438. Festival parking is available right near the festival grounds for £9/day.

This is the easiest option if you’re staying outside Hay-on-Wye itself during the festival (which we did for our trip).

🚆 Getting to Hay Festival By Train
If you’re travelling by train, the nearest main station is Hereford railway station, with onward buses and taxis to Hay-on-Wye and the festival.

Train tickets start from £14 one-way, and it’s a 3-hour journey from London if you catch the fast train!

get your london to hereford train tickets

Where to Stay for the Hay Festival

We chose this charming, quieter stay for our Hay Festival trip.

Where you stay makes a bigger difference to your Hay Festival experience than you might think.

If you stay in Hay-on-Wye itself, you can walk easily between the festival and town, which is ideal if you want a slower day and no driving at all.

If you stay in the wider area, you often get more availability, easier parking, and a quieter end to the day—especially during festival week when Hay fills quickly.

Here are the three options I’d recommend for your Hay Festival trip:

🏨 Stay in Hay-on-Wye itself (best for walking everywhere):

If you want to be right in the middle of it, The Swan at Hay is one of the most popular and consistently best-rated stays in town. It’s right in the centre, and easy for walking to both the festival site and Hay’s many bookshops, ideal for convenience!

🛏️ A historic central stay in Hay

Another very well-rated option is The Old Black Lion, which is much more historic and characterful, with an old inn atmosphere that suits Hay (and bookworms) especially well. It’s a lovely choice if you want somewhere that feels more local and old timey.

🌿 Stay just outside Hay for more ease

On my visit, we personally chose The Red Lion Hotel for our stay. It was a charming B&B-style property around eight miles from Hay-on-Wye, so driving in each day was very easy. It’s a much quieter countryside stay, but lovely if you’d like a quiet evening once the festival day is done.

If you’re booking for festival dates, I would not leave accommodation late—Hay books out quickly each year!

What to Expect & Things to Do at Hay Festival

One of the nicest things about Hay Festival—especially on a first visit—is that it’s super easy to settle into.

Although the programme is full, you can completely choose what you’d like to dip in and out of during your visit, with event tents, a main festival bookshop, food stalls, cafés, outdoor seating and plenty of room to pause between talks.

From personal experience, a good way to approach it is to book a few talks you really want to see, then leave space around them for the rest of Hay itself.

Here are a few things worth building into your day:

See one of the many Hay Festival talks, where authors and thought leaders from across the world come together to share their ideas! Make sure to arrive early for popular sessions, particularly headline speakers. See the speaker lineup here.
Browse the main Hay Festival Bookshop, where most speakers also sign books after events.
Leave time to explore Hay-on-Wye itself, especially the independent bookshops like Hay On Wye Booksellers or Hay Cinema Bookshop.
Visit Hay Castle if you have time between sessions.
Stop for food at one of the many delicious food stalls on site each year, if you see the momo place still here, it’s divine!

If it is your first visit, I would avoid overbooking your day(s). Two or three well-chosen talks, time in town, and a slower pace usually is far better than trying to do everything at once.

If you want, I’d also suggest checking the programme before you go and booking headline names early, as the biggest sessions do sell out quickly. You can see who’s speaking this year here.

Hay Festival Q&A

💭 How many days should you stay for Hay Festival?
If it’s your first visit, one or two full days are enough to enjoy Hay Festival well, especially if you book two or three talks and leave time to explore the town. An overnight stay makes the trip feel much more relaxed, particularly if you want dinner in Hay-on-Wye or an easier morning arrival.

💭 Can you bring your own food and drink?
Yes—many people bring water, snacks or something simple to eat between talks. There’s also plenty of food stalls and cafés on site if you would rather buy lunch there, and tons of picnic spaces throughout.

💭 When is Hay Festival 2026?
Hay Festival 2026 runs from Thursday 21 May to Sunday 31 May.

💭 Is Hay Festival free?
The festival site itself is free to enter, but most talks and events require individual tickets. Some sessions and family activities are free, but headline speakers usually sell out quickly. See speakers and events for this year here.

💭 Are dogs allowed at Hay Festival?
Only assistance and guide dogs are allowed on the main festival site.

💭 Is one day enough for Hay Festival?
Yes—if planned well. Two or three talks, lunch on site, and time in Hay-on-Wye itself usually makes for a very good first visit without feeling rushed.

💭 When should you book Hay Festival accommodation?
As early as possible. Hay-on-Wye is small, and the most convenient places often go quickly once the programme is released. This is where we stayed for our trip.

💭 What should you wear to Hay Festival?
Like anywhere in the UK, dress for changeable weather: layers, comfortable shoes, and something waterproof are usually the safest choice. Even in May, the weather can shift quickly!

💭 Do you need tickets for Hay Festival?
Yes—for most talks and headline events. Tickets are booked individually, and general sale usually opens after the full programme release.

💭 Do places in Hay-on-Wye sell out during the festival?
Very quickly—especially central hotels, inns and guesthouses. If you want to stay in town itself, it’s worth booking as soon as your dates are fixed.

💭 Where is best to stay in Hay-on-Wye?
If you want to walk everywhere, The Swan at Hay. It’s right in town and very convenient for the festival.

💭 Is staying near Hay a better option?
If Hay itself is booked, staying nearby often works very well. On my visit, The Red Lion Hotel made a very easy base, with a short drive into Hay each day.

💭 How long does Hay Festival last?
The full festival runs for 11 days, with events taking place daily across multiple stages.

Final Thoughts on Hay Festival

Reading and soaking in ideas is usually a solo affair once you’ve left uni, so it’s quite a beautiful experience to be in a room with people from across the world, of all ages, excited to soak in some knowledge and books for a week.

Between the charm of the book town Hay-on-Wye itself and the indulgence of spending a few days reading, wandering and eating in Wales, it’s a dream trip for any reader, and easy to see why repeat Hay Festival trips are plentiful.

Enjoy your visit! 📚✨

Thanks for reading my Hay Festival guide. Let me know how your visit goes on Instagram!

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Happy travels,

Hay Festival: A First-Timer’s Guide to the World-Famous Book Festival

About the Author

What is Hay Festival?

How to Get to Hay Festival